Day Tripper: Up Close and Personal

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Unseasonably powerful storms struck southern Thailand in December 2016 and January 2017, causing heavy flooding. Holed up at Green Banana on Koh Chang, I paddled over 400 wet, windy, and wavy kilometres in the north Andaman Sea waiting for Ian Taylor to show up. When he arrived, we battled the elements for a few days and discussed our options. The original plan had us southbound, but wild winds and generally shitty weather ravaging the south showed no signs of relenting. This led us to the unusually rational decision to call Green Banana base camp and paddle daily.

Our focus was the UNESCO Man and Nature Biosphere Reserve south of Ranong town, with a 32,000-hectare mangrove forest, and miles of khlongs (canals) dotted with fishing families. We timed the crossing to the mainland to benefit from the rising tide's current to push us across and deep into the mangrove canals, turning around at high tide and getting pulled home. The currents here are strong. There are often standing waves between Koh Chang and Koh Talu when it's pushing hard.

There are over 70 mangrove species growing in these saltwater forests. The wildlife is surprisingly diverse, and an endless maze of khlongs invites exploration. We made a game of pulling in at sandbars and 'islands' exposed by low tide for "shore lunches", featuring Ian's home-cooked and dehydrated Chili con Carne. As always, we were warmly greeted by local fishermen, who became accustomed to seeing us in strange places. From the shrimpers of Sai Dam Island and eel fishers of Khlong Ngao to the crabbers of Jak Island, we were always met with a smile and an invitation to eat.

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We had a mix of nasty weather early on and some nice days later in January. But no matter what the weather delivered, a dry home, friends, and fantastic food always waited.

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I logged another 1,000 km, finding new nooks and crannies, expanding my local knowledge and marvelling at the depth of sea kayaking opportunity around here.

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