tim morch

Every morning, around 11am, the fog lifts, and I carry my Feathercraft kayak to the dock. This section of Lake Alqueva is calm as I paddle out. There are only a couple of boats on mooring buoys here in Aldeia da Estrela, the occasional fishing boat on weekends, and not much more. Lake Alqueva, Portugal, is a paddler's paradise. Filled with islands and endless bays, exploring by sea kayak reveals the hidden gems.

The Calamanian Islands are legendary for a Second World War battle in which the U.S. Fast Carrier Task Force sunk three Japanese warships.

Waiting for the weather to clear at Grande Lago Alqueva, I was invited to participate in the 2nd Portuguese Laser SB20 "Champions Regatta".

I was trying to assemble collapsible sea kayak, but my eyes were repeatedly drawn to the implausibly clear, blue-green waters of Bacuit Bay.

The mouth of Malampaya Sound is chock full of rocks and we needed to run the gauntlet between them and a perilous point.

Finale Ligure is known as 'the Italian Eden of Mountain Biking'. When there, don't miss Oddone Bici, the oldest shop in town, est. 1929.

On the morning of Dec. 7, 2017, we set out from Chennai, India, aboard a pair of KTM Duke 250 motorcycles,for 28 days and over 2600 km.

On the morning of Dec. 7, 2017, we set out from Chennai, India, aboard a pair of KTM Duke 250 motorcycles. For twenty-eight days and more than 2,600km we explored rural Tamil Nadu and Kerala. Few foreigners ride the back roads of southern India and we certainly attracted a lot of attention. From chai stall stares to school children cheers and even newspaper coverage, here are a few tales of our experience.

The East Coast Road cuts through the Muttukadu Backwaters, an extensive estuary extending from north of Covelong to south of Mahabalipuram. In the seaside town of Mahabalipuram, we performed the standard tourist ritual, checking out the seaside temple and the old lighthouse. Walking the beach in front of “Mumu's Surf Shop”, decent waves near the temple were devoid of surfers. Touts were gentle and the beggars respectful.

Massive banyan trees dot the highway making for superbly shaded stops and random encounters. From the truck drivers carrying produce to market to the travelling salesman aboard a bicycle, roadside meetings are relaxed and wonderful. The crush of urban India recedes into a quiet, slow-paced rhythm.

The winding rural roads connecting villages are narrow and surprisingly well surfaced. Life is pretty slow out here. A few people sit at the local chai stall to trade gossip and watch life pass. Otherwise, there does not appear to be anyone. When a pair of foreigners riding motorcycles stop, the entire community slowly emerges to stare. The ritual involves a lot of smiling, saying “hello” and shaking hands endlessly.

We saw a total of 3 motorcycles and 2 jeeps over the next 25kms. I can, with confidence, say that we were the first foreigners on this road. This was confirmed in a couple of spots where we had to wait while the road crew actually completed a narrow strip to allow us to continue.

A sign indicated it was the first of 22 hairpin turns that lay ahead, our first experience with a numbered switchback highway.

The Idukki District of Kerala could be described in three words: mountains, spices, and tea. The verdant Western Ghat mountains are home to an incredible range of flora and fauna. Everything you ever see in a spice shop comes from this region. From pepper, “the King of Spice,” and cardamom, “the Queen of Spice,” to ginger, clove, turmeric, cinnamon, tamarind, nutmeg and more. And then there is tea, the lifeblood of the economy. Immaculately manicured plantations extend as far

"The Niagara Falls of India", "uncrowded" and "quiet", it is not. But the drive down the mountains is awesome and it's worth a quick peek.

There are adventures around every corner in India and with a few days off the bikes in Ooty, we relaxed, read, and walked about the hills.

Hogenakkal Falls is popular with Indian tourists who come to bathe in the pools, view the cascade, take selfies and buy tacky souvenirs.

Perhaps best of all, we knew that no matter what the weather delivered, a dry and friendly home awaited. Our friends and hosts at Green Banana brightened up the soggiest of days. Small and intimate, there is a genuine sense of family and communal living where everyone blends seamlessly.

We stumbled on the Sooksavan Cafe. Dating to 1966, the rustic French colonial building now sports WiFi and cappucino amid the nostaglia.

On the road from Villabouly to Xe Pon, we dodged potholes big enough to swallow a truck, finally turning onto a good highway to Muang...