tim morch

On the morning of Dec. 7, 2017, we set out from Chennai, India, aboard a pair of KTM Duke 250 motorcycles,for 28 days and over 2600 km.

The East Coast Road cuts through the Muttukadu Backwaters, an extensive estuary extending from north of Covelong to south of Mahabalipuram. In the seaside town of Mahabalipuram, we performed the standard tourist ritual, checking out the seaside temple and the old lighthouse. Walking the beach in front of “Mumu's Surf Shop”, decent waves near the temple were devoid of surfers. Touts were gentle and the beggars respectful.

Massive banyan trees dot the highway making for superbly shaded stops and random encounters. From the truck drivers carrying produce to market to the travelling salesman aboard a bicycle, roadside meetings are relaxed and wonderful. The crush of urban India recedes into a quiet, slow-paced rhythm.

The winding rural roads connecting villages are narrow and surprisingly well surfaced. Life is pretty slow out here. A few people sit at the local chai stall to trade gossip and watch life pass. Otherwise, there does not appear to be anyone. When a pair of foreigners riding motorcycles stop, the entire community slowly emerges to stare. The ritual involves a lot of smiling, saying “hello” and shaking hands endlessly.

After a peaceful ride through the countryside, the final 35km to Palani was a hectic horn honking, light flashing event that was as crazy...

A sign indicated it was the first of 22 hairpin turns that lay ahead, our first experience with a numbered switchback highway.

"The Niagara Falls of India", "uncrowded" and "quiet", it is not. But the drive down the mountains is awesome and it's worth a quick peek.

There are adventures around every corner in India and with a few days off the bikes in Ooty, we relaxed, read, and walked about the hills.

Hogenakkal Falls is popular with Indian tourists who come to bathe in the pools, view the cascade, take selfies and buy tacky souvenirs.

The drill sergeant barked the first set of commands and the squadron was slow to react. The orders were repeated sharply and every member...