Volume 19, April, 2011

The Coconut Telegraph

Surf Koh Phayam

South Star Surf Bar

 

 

The Telegraph returns to Koh Phayam for the penultimate island issue this season.  It is always a pleasure to come home to a place where people know you, they smile and greet you by name and there is a genuine feeling of community.  Even in my short time away, I notice changes: a new bungalow or restaurant and new faces.  It is fun to watch the ebb and flow of humanity on the island.  There are some - like "The Canadians" - who return regularly and seem to turn things sideways, as they did again this season.  Although the roster changed slightly this year, the infamous "Akbar" lead more than a few innocents astray.

Not all Canadians follow "Akbar's" lead.  Jayman and Annie had a quiet vacation together.  They did some sea kayaking, spent a night on Koh Kham with Lorenzo & Sylvia and were spotted frequently on the volleyball court.  Ian Taylor, recuperated from his viral infection, was on the island for a few weeks to paddle and fish.  It was great to see Ian healthy.  The last time I saw him, he was weak, without appetite and running a fever.  We had a couple noteworthy paddles: one deep into the mangrove swamp in Buffalo Bay, the other a day trip to Koh Chang to have lunch with Sophie at Aladdin Dive Safari.  To watch some footage, visit http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_yHol4QYNUs

The weather seems to have been a popular topic this season regardless of whom you talk to.  Europe saw weird weather, as did the UK, North America (whoever heard of snow in Alabama?) and Southeast Asia.  The month of March will likely be remembered as the month of rain here in Thailand.  It has been raining since the middle of the month as a couple of huge storms settled in over the entire region from Vietnam to the Andaman Islands.  Southern Thailand has seen flash floods, landslides and road closures.  Of course, no mention of freak weather would be complete without remembering the tragic situation in Japan.

Every time I paddle around the island I see more deforestation, landslides and accompanying signs of "progress".  I am disheartened by this commando development that threatens to deplete the island of its natural beauty and resources.  I talk with people who have been around more than 20 years and they talk of a time when you dipped your hook into the ocean for a meal, set a net to feed a bunch of families and watched the incredible nature of the island.  they also talk of a time of "community", when you were always invited to a meal and a drink, when hospitality was more important than getting another baht or two in your pocket.  This seems like a distant memory to them.

The Cashew Nut Festival came and went - as in years past.  Everything seems the same when it comes to a so-called festival on this island, so my level of interest nil.  They did not even include a volleyball tournament this year.  South Star thought differently and hosted a tournament, however.  It was lots of fun and free beer and food combined with lots of laughs made it a great day.

From the Cockpit

They Call it Progress

Fishing Tales & Other Lies

 

South Star

Volleyball Tournament

Beach Report

They're Back...