Volume 17, February, 2011
In this edition...
The Coconut Telegraph
Working out the kinks.
On the morning of December 20th, Ian Taylor and I set out in our sea kayaks from Ko Phayam. A year in the planning, the idea was to paddle "Border to Border" from Burma to Malaysia, exploring the Thai coastline. We crossed to the mainland and headed south along the Andaman Coast of Ranong Province. With the exception of the area around Khao Lak, this section of coastline is almost completely free of development. Endless beaches, a few islands, fishing villages and welcoming people characterize this stretch of coast. The mountains on the mainland create impressive views.
Phuket is a good place to avoid, so we paddled under the bridge into Phang Nga Bay. Phang Nga Bay is truly spectacular. The karst limestone outcroppings that spring from the sea to the sky are dramatic. They are especially so when you paddle along the rock, often underneath the overhang. The weather was not entirely cooperative. The normal deep ocean green set against a backdrop of blue skies dotted with puffy cumulous clouds was elusive. Nonetheless, the geography was striking.
Ian was feeling a little run down for a few days and by the time we reached Ao Nang, Krabi, he was out of gas. We stopped at a bungalow to rest and when he did not return to normal the following day he went to Krabi town for blood tests. Dengue was the initial diagnosis and his fevers ran as high 38.5C. His blood platelet count was dangerously low at 52 - below 50 and you can bleed to death from even the slightest cut. The prognosis was rest, which can really put a damper on paddling your kayak. Fortunately, Ian has a good friend who lives in Phuket and so we left our boats and went to Baz's place. A visit to one of the many excellent hospitals in Phuket delivered a different diagnosis: no dengue, a serious viral infection. Prognosis was the same. Ian's trip was over and he stayed with Baz to recuperate. I returned to Krabi and continue solo down the coast.
Development is sparse on the southern coast, the exception being the well-known island locations as Ko Lanta, Ko Muk and Ko Ngai. A definite highlight was spotting dugong (manatee) on Ko Libong - where the last major herd in Thailand is now protected. Ko Tarutao, formerly a prison island and now a national park, is stunning. Tourism is minimal and limited to the park bungalows or camping and the beaches on the west side are excellent. I circumnavigated the island, with the southerly point lying just a few miles from Langkawi and the Malaysian border - a total of 685km. To view photos of the trip visit my site.
To view Ian's video, check out http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=74cs9fuzxFQ&feature=player_embedded#
I Love My Wisper XPS.
Fishing Tales & Other Paddling Lies
'Nobody was Hurt'